Chinese Men: Diagnostic Cultural Disorders

“If Chinese local luxury brands are to emerge, it must not be the liquor and tea that people in China are proud of. It will certainly not be a specific craft embroidery. It is most likely to be produced in two industries: The first is the fashion industry. There is a large number of designers in China who are interested in doing high-end customization and high-fashion fashion.The second is the jewelry industry. China has a group of outstanding and diligent people who have been pursuing luxury jewellery for the past 30 years. Jewelry and fashion can span ethnic groups. Restrictions on race, ethnicity, and religion go to the world.” Lok Ya International President Lu Xiaoming clearly stated at the “China Business/Fudan Luxury Goods Forum” recently organized by China Business News.

As Lu said, at present, many domestic clothing brands are striving to upgrade to the high-end. On June 18th, the Seventh Wolf Chinese Men’s Museum, the first male costume culture themed museum in China, was officially opened to the public. This Chinese men’s museum contains late night and Qing Dynasty. There are nearly 1,000 exhibits of men's and men's clothing, various daily necessities, and lifestyle items at the time of ** and **. This private museum can also be said to be an attempt by Chinese men to cross-border marketing.

In fact, Chinese men's clothing has experienced 20 years of development and has reached the critical point of brand development. It is a model of continuing the traditional star advertising endorsement + CCTV bombing + channel investment, or playing as cross-border as international brands boldly. The development of advanced customization will determine the future direction of Chinese men's wear.

The password for the rise of the plate: China’s men’s clothing mainly consists of Fujian, Zhejiang, and Guangdong. Among them, Zhejiang’s Ningbo is dominated by business dresses, Fujian’s Jinjiang and Xiamen are dominated by business casual series, and the Guangdong plate is due to brand management. Defects have gradually become wholesale and foundry bases in recent years, and it is difficult to compete with the Fujian plate and the Zhejiang plate.

The rise of the Fujian plate is marked by the differentiation of the brand. It has produced a number of personalized men's wear, such as the "Women's Jacket" of the Seven Wolves, the "Pants Experts" of the Jiu Mu Wang, the "Chinese Collars" of the Qipai, and the talents of the genius. New dresses, etc. In the mid 90s of the last century, Fujian men's clothing was positioned to rise collectively by virtue of differentiated garments, which quickly led to the national market.

“In the initial stage of brand building, the market can be quickly torn through differentiated positioning, and brand attributes can be preliminarily built; for consumers, differentiated positioning can establish a memory point, and is a sharp knife that cuts into the market. The formation of a professional scale in the category market can be successful,” said Shi Zhangqiang, founder of Shanghai Jinkun Consulting Training Group.

An Jie, the founder of An Jiezhiyang, who once provided marketing consulting services to more than a dozen clothing companies in Fujian, Zhejiang, and Guangdong, summarized the development path of Chinese men's wear brands into four stages, namely, the rising stage of individual products and the rise of monopoly sales. , the rise of the brand and the rise of the championship. When seven wolves used jackets, Shanshan and Youngor took suits, shirts and other single products to open the market, they began to diversify the category, which opened the era of brand monopoly. In An Jie's view, the success of the Chinese men's monopoly model is the key to its future development.

The advantage of having only a single product is insufficient. In order to establish a monopoly model, it is necessary to carry out the extension of the category, and Fujian Men’s Wear takes the lead in “complete forms of monopolization” and makes sufficient efforts. This way, Fujian Mens South can open stores in Sanya. Rooted in Mohe. The complete form of monopoly allows Fujian men's clothing to spread rapidly across the country.

In addition, in order to support the monopoly pattern, the concept of “Design + Buying” supports this model. Buyers grasp the market information and supplier resources at the front end. Under the cooperation of the designers, they are generally judged by popular models. Organizations, parts development, procurement cycle, and price negotiation all have advantages. Generally, products can be completed in two months.

The brand pulls the stamina. The rise of the monopoly model is inseparable from the channel agency. The channel investment promotion can quickly expand the franchise to the national market and form a scale advantage. In this process, it is necessary to form a channel expansion, advertising follow-up, and expand sales. The role, otherwise the scale does not go, can not afford to advertise, the agent can not make money; Second, in order to ensure the health of the supply chain, it must be in this process, to ensure that the "opening store's growth rate" must be greater than "inventory The speed of growth, and there must be continuous improvement of the brand behind it.

The brand promotion of Chinese men's clothing began with a high-profile appearance of CCTV. In 2002, the Chinese football team historically entered the World Cup finals. The cards, tyrants, and seven wolves seized this opportunity to participate in the World Cup advertisements and made eye-catching. The brand achieved its first concentrated promotion. In 2004, Li Lang gambling on the Athens Olympic Games with an average daily frequency of more than 40 times a day. Every day, viewers can see Chen Daoming's presence in front of the castle on the shore of the Aegean Sea. Li Lang achieved success with the Athens Olympic Games.

"In addition to capitalizing on large-scale sports events, Lilang, Caizi, Hudu, Seven Wolves, and Yaopai chose to bid on CCTV prime time, for high-end launches, and Jinba and other companies chose to play in CCTV-5 for intensive delivery. Shi Zhangqiang said.

Of course, between men's wear and men's clothing, there are also different styles in terms of brand tonality. Lilang has used this image of Chen Daoming for many years to create an elegant and peaceful middle-aged male image for Li Lang. “Simple but not simple. "The brand spirit is also deeply rooted in people's hearts; while Rimula Men's Wear is more willing to inject some social elements into the brand and communicate with the target audience in a deeper level," the phrase "will not come back when it is not well-mixed", obviously targeting the inner needs of the target group. It reflects the eagerness of the audience in the third and fourth line market; seven wolves are more involved in the cultural elements, injecting cultural power into the brand, emphasizing that “men are not only one side” and upgrading the brand's shaping to the value level.

In addition to directly launching high-end media platforms, the men's public relations marketing tactics in Fujian are also eye-catching. For example, Seventh Wolf leverages on "Real Madrid China", Jin Ba emphasizes "selection to the Louvre", Li Lang lands on "Milan Fashion Week" and so on. These public relations activities have a very significant effect on the shaping of brand personality and product status.

However, in the past five years, with the upgrading of consumption and the improvement of consumer attitudes in the second and third tier markets, Chinese men’s apparel has become stagnant. The Zhejiang sector has been devoting energy due to busy investment in other industries, and the main industry has been retired but the marketing of the Fujian plate has been reduced. The overall approach has not been improved. The advertising effect of CCTV has been worse than before, and the design and style of the brand have been somewhat outdated. This makes the men's wear in the Fujian plate look less stagnant overall.

In the past two years, integrating the brand into cultural genes, Chinese men's clothing has experienced rapid development for many years. It has reached a bottleneck period for the development of the industry. The inventory crisis that has been hidden for many years has finally fully appeared. This shows that Chinese men's clothing is in the design innovation and style adjustment. Sex, cultural elements, brand management, etc. are all insufficient.

Looking at the world's most famous big brands, without exception, all are designer brands, while the world's top ten men's brands are also designer brands, these designer name brands, in the decades to even During the hundreds of years, no matter what kind of advanced marketing model was born, it always adhered to its own invisible barriers and professionally and meticulously occupied resources related to design strength, such as designer resources, fabric resources, and supplier resources. Constantly tells the story of their own brand, so that the charm of design culture has always been above other resources.

“For a Chinese men’s brand, how to be focused and professional is not an easy task. After the men’s wear in the Zhejiang plate reaches a certain scale, the company will use a large resource for investment in other industries. Ignoring the continuous development of the main business led to the lack of development potential in recent years." An Jie analysis.

In the accumulation of international brands for decades or even hundreds of years, in addition to focus, more is the accumulation of culture, this is not illusion, many large brands of color, product design system, style is fixed, such as LV, Gucci are Classical shapes that have settled down, such as Hermès’s scarves pattern, continue to incorporate art into scarves. Each piece of scarves has become a work of art; LV’s travel philosophy is to sell travel culture, and every advertisement is Traveler related, conveys a profound travel philosophy. Therefore, if Chinese men's wear wants to establish a distinctive brand imprint, it must insist on the precipitation of brand culture for a long time, keep pace with the times, and maintain the brand DNA heritage.

Cross-border cooperation is also an important means of brand innovation for clothing brands in recent years. H&M is a master in this area. Inviting big-name designers to be a guest has always been H&M's marketing killer. In 2007, the cooperation between H&M and Roberto Cavalli became the focus. Cooperation with Madonna brought Madonna to participate in the design and attracted the interest of numerous fans. These cross-border marketing brought H&M a significant increase in sales.

The LV teamed up with the National Museum to move the LV products to the National Museum for display. This cross-border event has attracted widespread attention and has earned LV's eyeball. Its cultural upgrade is incalculable; in addition, Chanel and The cross-border exhibition of the National Art Museum of China, seven wolves set up seven wolves men's museums, these cross-border events are of positive value to enhance the brand's cultural connotation and brand style.

"Chinese clothing must focus on professional, cultural and cross-border cooperation, learn from international brands, the brand can go further." An Jie said.

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